EXPLORING FURTHER: Catching the Nine Line to Benidorm

BENIDORM 1

We all know that Jávea is a treasured jewel of the Marina Alta, a place of shimmering coves, lively fiestas, but also laid-back Mediterranean charm so it’s easy to understand why so many are happy to stay put. But every now and then, the urge strikes to wander just a little further afield. A change of pace, a different vibe, a fresh plate of something delicious. That’s where Benidorm comes in.

However, if the idea of navigating traffic and parking in a busy resort town, one of the most popular seaside resorts in Spain, might not sound like part of a relaxing day out, there’s a slower, simpler, and altogether more scenic alternative: the LÍNEA 9 of the TRAM d’Alacant.

It’s an affordable way to explore the coast with a cheap return fare that makes it an excellent value for anyone wanting to make the most of their day trip without breaking the bank. But it’s not just about the cost or convenience. The tram ride itself is part of the experience. As the train meanders along the coast, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of the Mediterranean, with the rugged hills and quaint villages of the region unfolding around you. You’ll pass through lush landscapes, olive groves, and charming towns that make the journey as much a pleasure as the destination.

And perhaps best of all, the pace is relaxed. There’s no rush, no stress—just time to sit back, enjoy the scenery, and let the destination come to you. It’s a lovely way to travel, offering a peaceful contrast to the more hectic nature of driving.

The Línea 9 tram runs between Dénia and Benidorm, providing a scenic and relaxing way to travel along the coast. Trains depart every hour at two minutes past the hour from Dénia, with the first tram at 06:02 and the last at 22:02. If you’re closer to Jávea, you can catch the tram from Gata de Gorgos, which is only about 10 minutes away and trains leave 17 minutes past the hour between 06:17 and 22:17.

Ticket prices are based on the number of zones travelled. At the time of writing, a return ticket from Dénia or Gata de Gorgos to Benidorm, covering two zones (BC), costs €4.80. And if you get the bug for travelling by tram, a Bono 10 card offers 10 single journeys at a reduced rate (currently €12.00), making it a cost-effective option for multiple trips.

While Gata de Gorgos is more convenient for those living or staying in Jávea, Dénia is recommended for a guaranteed seat, as the tram can get busy, especially during peak hours. In addition, unless you’re using a taxi to get to Gata, parking is very limited around the station whilst Dénia has plenty of parking, including a pay-&-display car-park right opposite the main door.

The journey from Dénia to Benidorm takes about 82 minutes – just over an hour from Gata de Gorgos – so it’s worth settling in and enjoying the ride. For the best coastal views, make sure to sit on the left side of the tram, as it offers the most stunning vistas of the Mediterranean and the surrounding countryside.

Information correct as of March 2025.

When the tram arrives in Benidorm station, passengers can transfer to take Línea 1 down into the city of Alicante. However, instead of heading toward the Alicante tram, we carefully cross the line and leave the station, heading toward the bus stop which is to the right as you leave the station.

Take the 001 service to Playa del Levante – or at least as close as you can get; ask the driver if you’re unsure. A single ticket costs just €1.60, and the bus stop you need is Avenida del Mediterráneo, 24 (Hotel Belroy). Inside the bus, there’s a screen showing the next stop, so you can easily follow along. When your stop approaches, simply press the bell to signal the driver.

After alighting, cross the road and walk just a few hundred metres to the promenade of Playa del Levante.

As you arrive at Playa del Levante, you’re greeted by a lively and bustling seafront that’s a sharp contrast to the relative quiet of the journey to get here. We visited at the end of March, and although it was a fairly warm early spring day, there was a noticeable difference in how the locals and holidaymakers were dressed. While we were comfortably wearing jeans, trainers, and a zipped-up hoodie to match the mild temperature, many of the holidaymakers were already making the most of the sunshine, sitting outside the many colourful (if somewhat gaudy) bars, dressed in vests (or even topless), bright shorts, and Crocs shoes and that was just the men —a true Benidorm look!

As you walk along the promenade, the beach stretches out to your left, with the iconic Benidorm Island visible off the coast. We’re heading along the promenade, towards the obvious promontory and the Plaça del Castell, the famous square that offers stunning panoramas of the coastline and Benidorm’s skyline, and the steps down to the Balcón del Mediterráneo,

The promenade is lined with bars and cafes that cater to a variety of tastes, so whether you’re in the mood for a quiet drink or want to join the vibrant energy of Benidorm’s more boisterous beach scene, you’ll find something to suit your mood.

After enjoying a well-earned drink and soaking up the vibrant vibe of Playa de Levante, it’s time to take a short walk toward one of Benidorm’s most iconic spots, the Plaça del Castell.

To get there, keeping the sea on your left, follow the promenade to the very end – Plaça del Torrijo – where the modern beachfront begins to give way to the characterful streets of the old town; you’ll find the tourist information office here too. With the office on your left, turn left and it’s a bit of a steep climb up Carrer Metge en Comse Bayona until you reach the top – Plaça de Saunt Jaume – with the grand main façade of the Iglésia de Sant Jaume i Santa Anna, the oldest church in Benidorm built in the latter 18th century at one end and a balcony offering a view along the entire Playa del Levante at the other end.

Rather than passing through the archway next to the church, take in the view of the beach and then take a narrow alleyway to reach Plaza de Sant Ana with its four cannons that once belonged to the fortress that stood on the promontory, each now pointing to a cardinal point.

At the far end of square, there is a set of steps (plus a ramp for pram and wheelchair access) which provides access to Plaza del Castell, the site of the former medieval fortress that was destroyed in the 19th century, for sweeping views over both beaches, the bay, and the surrounding hills. Look east to see the curve of Levante Beach, and west for a postcard-perfect shot of Poniente, with the town’s high-rises framing the horizon. On a clear day, you can see all the way across the bay to the Penyon d’Ifach which dominates the town of Calpe, a towering limestone peak that’s a natural landmark along the Costa Blanca. To the other side, the dramatic cliffs and hills of the hinterland offer a stark contrast to the urban skyline.

Down a set of steps at far end of the square is one of the most popular and iconic viewpoints in Benidorm, Mirador del Castell – Balcó de la Mediterrània. It’s popularity means that there is a huge demand to head down its narrow steps and it can get very busy but it’s worth waiting and making the effort. Just off the viewpoint, there are remains of the famous Benidorm water spout which used to shoot a jet of water high into the air until it was shut down after it was found that the water was causing erosion to the viewpoint and its rocks.

Back up at the viewpoint, we have another iconic Benidorm view, this time of the entire Playa de Poniente, the narrow sandy beach stretching from the harbour for some three kilometres around the headland of Finestrat. In the middle of this square, there is a wooden pergola where you can take a rest and admire the views in almost every direction. Fans of the UK TV series ‘Benidorm’ will recognise the structure as playing the part of a restaurant’s terrace in several of its episodes.

Another set of steps drops us back down into Plaza de Santa Ana and we head to the left of the bar-restaurant into Plaça del Castelar where the two iconic blue domes of the church are clearly visible as well as the mosaic of Virgen del Sufragio, the patron saint of Benidorm which was created in 1992. In the middle of the square is a large anchor which was donated to the city by the Spanish Navy.

As we pass to the left of the church, we enter the Plaça de la Senyoria where a night market is held during the balmy summer evenings. There is also a sculpture called “A Los Muertos en el Mar”, formed by an anchor and two figures surrounded by water, a memorial to those lost at sea, and a view overlooking the small beach of Cala del Mal Pas.

From the square, begin your descent on the western side of the headland, making your way toward Playa de Poniente. Walk down Calle del Condestable Zaragoza, a quiet, traditional street that gently winds its way toward the sea. Keep your eyes peeled for a narrow alleyway and a set of stone steps on your left; these will lead you down to the wide, golden expanse of Playa de Poniente, the quieter side of Benidorm, a welcome contrast to the buzz of Levante, which is for its longer, less crowded shoreline, and it’s particularly popular with Spanish families, giving it a more relaxed, local feel. The pace here is slower, the vibe more tranquil.

At the foot of the steps, you’ll find yourself near the Plaça del Elx, a lovely, shaded square lined with towering palm trees—a perfect place to sit and cool off beneath the leaves. It’s also a hotspot for street markets, which often pop up along the promenade, offering everything from handmade jewellery to leather bags and local crafts and even seafood dishes, cheese and ham. The beach itself is just steps away, inviting you for a paddle or a barefoot walk along the edge of the surf.

With the sea breeze behind you and the sun still high, it’s time to turn into Benidorm’s old town. From Playa de Poniente, head up the lively pedestrian street of Passeig de la Carretera. This bustling thoroughfare is lined with shops, cafés, and street performers, and after about 120 metres, take a right turn onto Calle Santo Domingo, better known as the legendary Tapas Alley.

This narrow, atmospheric street is the beating heart of Benidorm’s tapas scene. The area is heavily influenced by Basque cuisine, a nod to the resort’s long-standing popularity with visitors from the País Vasco. Here, bars are packed with displays of montaditos, bite-sized delights typically served on a slice of crusty bread, often secured with a skewer. Each one is a full of flavour, offering everything from juicy prawns and grilled octopus to spicy chorizo, goat’s cheese with caramelised onion, or even miniature hamburgers.

Tradition calls for you to stand or perch at the bar, order a drink, and sample a few of these delicious morsels, often picking them out by pointing or asking by number. It’s a social, informal experience, more about grazing and chatting together at the bar than sitting down to a formal meal. Prices usually range from €2 to €4 each, depending on the ingredients.

If you’re looking for something more substantial, many of the bars have a few tables either inside or outside, but you should be aware that some may not serve the montaditos at the table, offering instead more conventional tapas or set menus and even paella. Still, it’s easy to wander from bar to bar, sampling a little from each, creating your own gourmet walking tour through the flavours of the region.

Don’t miss Pintxos Aurrera, near the end of the street, a favourite among locals and visitors alike. It’s known for its massive selection of montaditos, which are neatly numbered for easy ordering. This place captures the true spirit of Tapas Alley: fast-paced, flavour-packed, and fun. But it’s hugely popular and, unless there are stools available, they don’t encourage standing at the bar.

And if you’re feeling adventurous, duck into the side streets that branch off from Calle Santo Domingo. Many of them hide smaller, quieter gems, family-run taverns and modern pintxos bars where you can discover new favourites off the beaten track.

Take your time here. Despite Benidorm’s reputation for hustle and high-rise holidaying, Tapas Alley offers a slower, more authentic rhythm. It’s a chance to pause, soak in the atmosphere, and savour good food and drink in a setting that feels far removed from the louder beachfront scene. With the scent of grilled seafood in the air, the murmur of Spanish voices around you, particularly when you are standing at the bar, and a cold glass of wine or beer in hand, you might just forget you’re in one of Spain’s most visited resorts. This is a corner of Benidorm that rewards both those who wander and those who stay a while.

Of course, if you find yourself enchanted by the vibe, as many do, there’s no need to rush back. Benidorm truly comes into its own in the early evening, when the golden light softens the streets and locals begin to fill the bars and squares. Whether you return to the viewpoint for sunset, linger over a leisurely meal in the old town, or simply join the paseo along the promenade with a final ice cream or cocktail in hand, staying a little longer can turn a day trip into something more memorable.

Just remember to keep an eye on the return tram times. The last departure from Benidorm back to Dénia is currently scheduled for 22:35, giving you time to enjoy the early evening ambience without feeling rushed. Or, if the mood takes you, why not consider an overnight stay? There are plenty of charming little hotels and guesthouses hidden within the old town and just off the beach, ready to welcome spontaneous travellers.

When it’s finally time to leave the charms of Benidorm behind, there are a few easy options to get you back to the tram station. You can catch the 001 bus service from Calle Esperanto, around a 10-minute walk from Tapas Alley, or just a few minutes from the Playa de Levante. Buses run regularly and will drop you just outside the station, convenient and cheap.

Alternatively, you can do what we did and hail a taxi. There’s a large, well-organised taxi rank on Avenida del Mediterráneo, again about a 10-minute walk from Tapas Alley or just a few minutes walk from the promenade of Playa de Levante if you decide to return for a final tipple. The ride to the station is quick and costs around €6, a fair price for the comfort and ease, especially as evening falls.

And if you’d rather walk off all those delicious bites, it’s a 25-minute uphill stroll back to the station. It’s a gentle enough incline, and offers a final glimpse of local life in the quieter residential streets of Benidorm.

Trams back to Dénia leave at 35 minutes past the hour, with the last one departing at 22:35 which gives you plenty of time to enjoy the town without rushing. On your way home, switch sides: sit on the right-hand side of the tram for more views of the coast, or the left for a different perspective than you saw on the way in.

Whether you head straight back or linger a little longer, this is a return journey that offers a relaxing, scenic close to a perfect day trip.

A day out in Benidorm by way of Línea 9 is more than just a change of scenery, it’s a reminder of how much richness lies just beyond the familiar. From the relaxed charm of the tram ride to the buzz of the seafront, the sweeping coastal views, hidden coves, and lively old town streets, this is a journey that blends ease with adventure, flavour with discovery.

For those based in Jávea or the Marina Alta, it’s proof that you don’t need a car to enjoy a change of pace, but you will need to hop on a bus or grab a taxi to get to and from the tram station at Gata de Gorgos or Dénia. With that little bit of planning, and just a few euros in your pocket, you can enjoy a full day of exploration, good food, and sea air, returning home with full bellies, tired feet, and a few more memories than you left with.

Whether you go for the beaches, views, the beer, the montaditos, or just the ride itself, one thing is certain: Benidorm always surprises, and sometimes, that’s exactly what a day trip should do.

Want to see the journey in action? Check out our YouTube video, where we take you from Jávea to Benidorm via Línea 9 of the tram, explore the viewpoint, and dive into the culinary delights of Tapas Alley. It’s a perfect preview to the adventure you’ll soon embark on!