| Whilst these colourful fiestas, celebrated mainly in the southern
Valencian region, serve primarily as a reminder of a period of history when much
of Spain was under the control of Muslim powers, they also recall the daily
struggle against Muslim Barbary pirates who prowled the Mediterranean coast
between the 15th and 17th centuries. Indeed, the village of Jávea was once a
walled stronghold to protect its citizens against such marauders. In essence, it
celebrates the success of the “Reconquista”, the ultimate triumph of Christian forces over what
were considered as Islamic invaders in 1492, and the strengthening of the
Christian faith, whilst also acknowledging the culture that controlled much of
Spain for over 700 years. The roots of this fiesta stretch back more than 500
years, beyond the success of the “Reconquista” and in some areas have developed
from older traditions over 800 years old. The biggest event takes place in Alcoy
around the feast of San Jorge (St. George) in late April / early May, celebrations which
were declared a ‘Fiesta of International Tourist Interest’ in
1980.
Each town has its own peculiarities but in
general the fiesta is celebrated is very much the same way. The participants
split themselves into the Moors and the Christians. These two sides are then split
into components known as “filas” which are funded primarily by membership fees
and fund-raising. Every year each side
elects a ‘Captain’ or ‘King’ as their representative who will preside over the
celebrations. Membership is a year-long commitment, raising funds, organising
banquets and planning the activities that will make up this fiesta.
The festivities open with the ubiquitous
inauguration, a long drawn-out evening of speeches and presentations that test
the patience of the most enduring of characters. A procession passes through the
port collecting the representatives of each of the ‘filas’ before arriving at
the decorated stage that has been constructed in the centre of the port. It
seems quite disorganised to the outsider; participants mingle quite aimlessly
with friends and family, sipping the odd beverage and drawing on long cigars
whilst belated light and sound checks continue apace in the centre of the
square. Its not unusual for a sudden burst of distorted music to virtually rock the speakers from their
stands and a handful of unaware spectators from their seats. What follows is
almost two hours of bum-numbing speeches and set-pieces.
Although the fiesta is based in the port area of
Jávea / Xàbia, it does once move into the Historic Centre when representatives of the ‘filas’
make their way in a modest procession to Calle San Jaime to make an offering of flowers at the shrine
of San Jaime (ENG: St. James) that sits in a small niche at the eastern end of the narrow well-preserved
street. One of the twelve Apostles of Jesus, Jaime was beheaded by King Herod
Agrippa I in 44 CE and legend claims that his body was taken up by angels and
taken to Iria Flavia in Iberia (modern-day Padrón in Galicia, north-western
Spain) where a massive rock closed around his relics. Tradition states that he
miraculously appeared to fight alongside Christian forces during the legendary
Battle of Clavijo (844 CE), a clash in which the vastly out-numbered Christians
defeated the Muslim forces of the Emir of Córdoba, and thus he became known as
‘Santiago Matamoros’ – St. James the Moor-slayer – whilst “Santiago y cierra
España!” (“St. James and strike for Spain”) has become the traditional battle
cry of Spanish armies.
Throughout the week-long fiesta, a number of attractions are
available, including a modest Medieval Fair that stretches
down Calle de Triana, offering all sorts of hand-made
objects and some delicious food, and various traditional
games, such as Valencian pilota. Music features heavily
and there are a number of live performances throughout
the week as well as several open-air community dinners;
as always, fiesta is a great excuse to come together
and have a great time, forgetting for a moment those
day-to-day pressures. Look out as well for children's
activities, including giant inflatables and special
hot chocolate and buns. You may well find a giant paella
blocking one of the side streets; take a plate - everyone
is welcome to join in.
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